Perigord Noir

In November we visited the Perigord Noir region where the Dordogne and Vézère Rivers flow through this southwest part of France. The Dordogne used to be the border between England and France. This is a marvelous area for several reasons: an abundance of prehistoric caves; the main battlegrounds of the Hundred Years War between France and England exist here; hundreds of fortified castles that are French and English in origin (because of the HYW); and the gastronomy is unequaled (if you like duck, goose, foie gras, trufffes, and walnuts). 

We stayed at a B&B called Le Lys de Castlenaud where our host, Nathalie, has created a magical, medieval atmosphere. Her inspiration seems to come from two castles that are visible from her property, Château de Beynac (French) and Château du Castlenaud (English) and down the river from each other. She dresses in medieval style and will regale you with the story of Joan d'Arc. She provides wonderful advice on where to go and what to see. We enjoyed a regional treat the night we arrived at the inn: Vin de Noix, an aperitif made from walnuts! So yummy we brought several bottles of it back to Toulouse.

We ate as if the food was going to run out! Nathalie told us visitors have to plan on gaining 2-3 kilos for a week's visit. We ate regional specialties like walnut cake, cassoulet (casserole containing pork, goose, duck, and white beans), foie gras, and confit de canard (a rich and delicious dish made with leg of the duck). Luckily, we had to climb cliffs to enjoy the castles and venture deep into a cave to see prehistoric markings. We considered ourselves well fortified, just like the castles!

Lots of pix to share, so I will begin with that and leave it to the captions. Visit this region if you can. You will not be disappointed!

Another view from Castlenaud.

View from Castlenaud to the valley below.

First stop: Sarlat. Fabulous town!

Dining room in Reignac

Château de Castlenaud towering over the valley.

Had to cross the river to get to Château de Castlenaud.

A river view from Castlenaud

Reignac--cliff caves used in prehistoric times, eventually castle was
built into the side of the cliff incorporating the caves into its rooms!

 

We were there, too!

Fun at Castlenaud!

More fun at Castlenaud!

The fun at Castlenaud continues...

Did I mention truffles? We visited this gentleman's truffle farm to
learn about them and how they are cultivated and harvested.

Corinne and the truffle dog bonded!

At the Gardens of Marqeyssac--magical, stunning gardens
belonging to a chateau also looking over the Dordogne.

Charlotte along the garden path at Marqeyssac

Claire and Corinne found a fine resting spot at Marqeyssac.

View over the river from Marqeyssac

Discovered this unique structure along one of the walking paths at Marqeyssac

These fellas added merriment to our walk through the gardens. 

Natural canopy

Puymartin

Château de Beynac from Marqeyssac

One more chateau: Puymartin, built during the 13th century

We also visited Rocamadour--an incredible town built in a gorge and home to pilgrimage churches.
The pilgrims undoubtedly suffered to get there, but it's worth it. Also home to one of our favorite cheeses!

Schedule

Claire and the goats made friends when we visited a Rocamadour cheese farm. 

The pure joy of discovery on this face confirms
for me that this year is being well spent!